Dust Collection In The American Craftsman Workshop

I often get questions about my dust collection set up and so I thought that I would share it with everyone. The dust collection in my shop is simple and may even be a bit of a disappointment to see. But the reality is that it works pretty well except for a few shortcomings.

Currently I am using a single stage, 2hp, 1500cfm rated dust collector wired for 220v. It is a 110/220v motor, but when wired to 110v it would dim the lights every time I fired it up so 220v is the way to go. 

The dust collector and basic hose layout.

The dust collector came with a 30 micron cloth bag that worked OK for sawdust from the planer and tablesaw, but it just about killed me when I started using it on the sanding machine. The finest dust that comes off of the sanding machine would pass straight through the bags and go into my lungs. Using the original bag filter would result in three days of hacking up brown goo from my lungs, so I purchased a retro fit 1 micron pleated filter from Penn State Industries. These filters are well worth the money, they are amazing in comparison to the cloth bags.

You will notice that I have to use duct tape to seal the bottom bag onto the DC unit. This is one of the drawbacks if you purchase a dust collector and then a retro kit. The original setup was not intended to be used with the plastic bags and their particular needs for attachment. But this works OK, I just have to keep duct tape on hand.

Sanding machine dust collection.The dust collector is located closest to the sander because this is the most difficult machine to collect dust from. It has two ports and requires the most CFM. The 2hp motor provides enough suction but the biggest problem is that the dust collector is a single stage unit. For a sanding machine, a 2 stage DC unit is really necessary because it would help keep the filter clean for a longer period of time. I have plans to buy a cyclone but they are on hold at the moment. I know that I could use a garbage can with a cyclone lid and I may resort to this option.  

Planer and tablesaw dust collection.The CFM requirements for a surface planer and tablesaw are not as great as the sanding machine. A tablesaw is difficult to collect from if you do not leave the dust collection shroud around the blade. I do not have the shroud mounted on mine so I get a certain amount of dust that comes off of the tablesaw. With this understanding, the dust collection from my tablesaw is quite satisfactory.

Tablesaw dust collection.

 The dust collection system would benefit most with a smooth pipe run, but for the short distance I have to run a DC line, the corrugated hose works sufficiently without causing too much drop in the suction. I have a blast gate located at each tool and for my small system this works fine, I do not need to shut down whole runs to increase flow elsewhere.

Jointer dust collection.The jointer has it's own dedicated dust collector. It is a small 3/4hp, 660cfm unit with the cloth bags. This works good because the jointer does not produce fine dust overall, it produces shavings.

This small dust collector was actually my original. The bigger one came later but I kept the small one because using it worked out best for my shop layout and dust collection needs. I was glad that I kept it because a couple of times I hauled it to a remodeling jobsite. It's mobility has been a great asset to my business. 

Both of the dust collectors are activated by remote control units. I find that these are a great investment for the shop. I have the Woodcraft and ShopFox brands and they both work great. When you make the purchase, just be sure that the remote unit will handle the HP load of the dust collector.

Dust Collection From Small Tools

I collect dust from my electric hand tools like the random orbital sander, belt sander, and biscuit joiner. But I will have to cover that setup with photos and a full write up at a later date;)

That is all for now.

Your friend in the shop - Todd A. Clippinger.

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Using A Template to Route An Arch

The Photo File Fiasco

I like to add a lot of photos to my entries because so much information can be communicated visually. But it certainly makes things difficult if I move a file and it strips all of the images out of 2 weeks worth of entries.

However, I did learn a lesson about how storage files work for the site.

Creating An Arch

Cutting template with jigsaw.If you remember, on my last entry I shared a method for creating an arch. I am creating the arch in a template first, then I will transfer it to the actual project. After marking the arch it is now time to cut it out in the template material.

I am using 1/2" baltic birch for the template. I use baltic birch because of it's wonderful handling characteristics and because the bearing or bushing guides all require more than 1/4" material. In my opinion it is well worth the money and it is part of the job cost.Transferring the arch to the desk.

As you can see in the photo, I have the template laying on the project because I used it to help lay out the pattern. If you do this, use caution not to cut into your actual project as you cut the template.

By combining the consistent nature of 1/2" baltic birch with a good jigsaw and blade, I can cut right on the line for my templates. This is where the cost of good quality materials and tools pays off for me.

After the cutting is done, I might have to do a little bit of sanding to smooth the arch. But with this project that was not necessary, the cut was really good and this is a rustic desk anyway. So now I transfer the arch to the project using the template.

Cutting the arch in the desk.

Next, I cut the waste off the project. I prefer to leave some margin between the cut and the actual line. How much of a buffer you leave will be determined by personal skill level, equipment and cutting conditions of the material itself. But keep in mind that the routing step is next.

The less material you have to remove with the router, the lower the chances of suffering from tear-out. You may also need to use a climb cutting technique to help control the tear-out. 

Template routing the first half of the desk edge.The router bit is not long enough to cut the full face of the desk at once, so I start the routing on the bottom side of the desk. I take advantage of this and attach the template to the bottom of the desk with screws. With the rustic style of this desk, I probably could have attached it to the top and nobody would have thought anything of the screw holes.

One half of desk edge routed.

Once the first half is routed I remove the template and flip the desk to continue routing from the other side.

When routing with the template I used a top bearing router bit. That is the bit had a bearing guide on the top end and it rides against the template on the top surface.

Now that half of the face is routed on the edge of the desk, I will use a bottom guide bearing bit. The bottom guide bearing will ride on the half that has just been routed. That means the first routed pass acts at the guide for the second pass from the other side. 

Routing the other half.Now that the full face is routed, I have to add some hand-hewn texture. But that is for another episode;)

That is all for now.Full edge routed in two passes.

Your friend in the shop - Todd A. Clippinger

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Photos Restored to Blog

OK - some things you just learn the hard way. I changed the name on a folder and it moved all of my photos for all the February entries. 

I needed some shop time to break from the computer. But then I just had to fix the site because it was killing me to know I was getting visitors and they were missing out on the photos.

It's all better now. That is both me and the site.

Be sure to contact me if you find something amiss on the site. I am always trying to maintain vigilance to the condition of my site.

Your friend in the shop (where I am headed back to now) Todd A. Clippinger

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