D'OH!

Lost Blog Photos

I just realized that reorganizing my photo files dropped all of the images out of the earlier blogs from the last couple of weeks. 

I will get them reinserted over the next couple of days, but to do it I will probably forgo any new entries as I know this will burn time.

Bear with me guys!

Your friend in the shop (but a techno boob on the computer) Todd A. Clippinger

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Laying Out The Curve In A Rustic Office Desk Top

A Basic Desk

Simple 90° Desk

This particular desk was pretty easy to design, there was no call for cabinets or drawers underneath. 

In designing this desk, the first thought is to fill the area with a simple 90° structure. This forces the user to sit at the right or left wing.

Desk With 45° Inside Corner

The next consideration would be to fill the inside corner with a triangle to create an angled seating area. This makes great use of the corner and creates a comfortable work station. The computer monitor is tucked into the corner and a person sits with books, papers, and folders arrayed on the right and left wings. This provides easy access to a large area to the right and left as office work tends to spread out. 

Desk With Inside Curve

The next step in the thought process of designing this desk was to fill the inside corner with a curve instead of a diagonal. Curves are a little easier on the eye, they tend to add a little more visual flow. The inside curve on this desk looks appealing and provides a good place to sit between the right and left wings.

 

 

The Layout

The desk material is 2" thick and I knew that I wanted to use a template in creating the curve in the desk. 

Scribing the arc.

I started with a piece of 1/2" plywood that was a little oversized of the arc I wanted to create. I mapped out the location of the desk that would be underneath the template. Now I knew where the structure was located.

I have a simple 4' flat metal straightedge that is quite flexible and would span the two points of the arc. But I needed a way to hold it steady while I marked both ends of the arc. I cut a couple of blocks that were 1 1/2" thick with a miter cut on one end.  

 

Blocks with miter cut allow access for pencil when scribing.

By using 1 1/2" thick material, that made the blocks tall enough to support the height of the straightedge. The angled cut allows me to get my pencil into the corner to mark as accurately as possible. Now keep in mind that accurate is relative here because I am working on a "rustic" style desk. 

After flexing the straightedge to create the desired arc, I scribe it. Then I like to flip the straightedge end-for-end and see how it reconciles with the first mark. There is almost always a little deviation and I scribe the new line. Before cutting I double check to see how the arc looks overall

 

Detail of scribed arc.

In my shop, as well as most shops, we are not running CNC equipment to layout or cut our arcs, so they are not going to be machine perfect. But you can increase the accuracy by doing a couple of things.

First, insure even pressure in the middle of the straightedge when when bending it to create the arc. Second, make sure the end points are securely and equally anchored, and the last step is to double check the layout by flipping your straightedge end-for-end and lay it out again.  

No matter what you use to create the arc, whether it be a metal straightedge, wood strip, or plywood strip there will be a slight deviation somewhere in the line. If you flip the straightedge and lay it out again, it will usually deviate at the same point in the straightedge. When you scribe the second line, the deviations will be revealed and you will be able to make adjustments accordingly for the actual cut.

Once you get the arc lined out, it is time to cut. But that is for the next installment...

That is all for now. Be sure to spend some time in the shop practicing what you learn.

Your friend in the shop - Todd A. Clippinger

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Viewer Question

A Common Question

Dave H. had a question that I have often been asked by woodworkers and so I thought that I would share it and the answer with everyone.

Dave wanted to know where I do my finishing and if I do it in the shop, do I cover everything with plastic?

My Answer

Currrently, I do my finish work in the open shop. You can see the area where I have the rustic desk, that is where I stained it and that is where I will finish it.

Finish Area
I have a 12'x16' room in the shop that will be used as a finish room in the future, but that requires the construction of another building to clear out the room. I have some work supplies in the storage room and my wife has catering supplies and a fridge for extra food storage, so it will take more than just a regular little shed.

On To The Finish

I use a pre-catalyzed lacquer or catalyzed varnish for most all of my projects because they dry very rapidly. This means a couple of things for me. First, I do not need to cover the tools in the shop because the material that atomizes, dries in the air. It lands as dry fall instead of a mist that dries itself onto the tools. The overspray dust cleans up during the normal house cleaning with a shopvac and dust broom.

Second, the rapid dry time means that I do not require a hermetically sealed room to have a clear finish. The open time on these finishes is very short so that leads to less opportunity for contaminates like bugs or dust to pollute the finish.

Another great benefit of the solvent finishes is that they will dry even in the cool winter shop temperatures.

The Draw-Back

One of the issues with the solvent based finishes is the potential fire hazard or risk of explosion due to the vapors. This is something that I take into serious consideration.

I keep the shop heated at 52° when not in use and I turn it up to 60° or 62° when I am going to apply finish. After the shop reaches temperature I turn the power to the furnace off, I spray a coat of finish, and then I dump the air out of the shop by opening doors and windows on opposite sides of the room.

Dumping the air out takes only a couple of minutes even with just a slight breeze, which always seems to be present where I live. After the air is dumped out of the shop, I close it back up and turn the furnace on. The air temperature drops, but it recovers quickly because the surface temperature of everything in the shop is maintained. That is the thing to realize, I am just doing a quick air exchange, not entirely losing the heat from everything in the shop so it recovers in just a few minutes.

One thing I should mention about heating the shop is that I have a wood floor. That means I not only have increased comfort in comparison to concrete, but the shop is easier to keep warm. This has an overall effect on heating the shop and the surface temperatures of everything in it which affects dry times.

That is all I have for now.

Your friend in the shop - Todd A. Clippinger

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